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If you’re like most people, you plug in your appliance, and use it until it breaks. You then buy a new one or pick up the phone and call us to fix it. Since you’ve taken the time to visit our website, why not take a bit more time and learn about your appliances and what you can do to keep them happy.
Legal stuff - There is no written or implied guarantee that any of the advice below will help you. This information is provided as a reference only. Haywood Appliance, RSH, and their respective employees cannot be held liable in anyway should this information cause you personal harm, or damage to your home or appliances. Simply Stated: We feel strongly that all repairs are best done when left to professionals. You should NEVER work on any appliance unless it is disconnected (unplugged) from its power source - even if you think the circuit breaker is turned off. The same holds true for Gas and Water - turn them off. Remember, there is still gas in the line after you turn it off.
One thing you can do to help your washing machine run easier is to load your laundry into the machine after some water has entered the tub. Now is a good time to add your detergent. Don’t wait until it’s filled. However, if you are using powder and doing a cold water wash, you may want to dissolve the detergent in a container with some warm water, and then pour it into the washer.
Problem - I think my washing machine is making a break for it.
Let’s start with the basics. Most washing machines will vibrate and shake a bit - they have to since they have tubs of water spinning and agitating, and so on. Now, if your washing machine actually moves across the floor, it typically will need to be leveled. Some washing machines are self-leveling so you should not have that problem, but many machines have screw-out feet on each corner and by turning them to the left they will extend out (down) and to the right they will screw in. It is not much different than leveling a table. Think of it this way: there’s lots of water in there, water weighs a lot, and the feet have to support the changing weight. With the washing machine off, adjust the feet so they are all touching the floor. Sometimes it takes a few leveling adjustments to get it just right.
Problem - My washer stops at the rinse cycle.
Most washers these days use cold water for rinsing clothes. If the cold water side of the water valve is clogged or not otherwise working, the washer waits until the tub is filled before advancing through the cycle. No water, no cycle. Keep in mind, there are really two sets of water valves. One water valve is part of your home’s plumbing, looks like a spigot, and is outside the washing machine. It is called the water supply faucet. This supply faucet is where you connect the hose. The other water value is inside your washing machine and will require a service call to replace.
If you have hot and cold water supply faucets, you probably have two hoses going into your washer. They are called fill hoses. At least once a year, you should pull the washer away from the wall to inspect the hoses for kinks. These hoses are inexpensive to buy and are relatively easy to install since they both screw on with your fingers and tighten easily with channel locks. Make sure you first turn off your water. The steel-braided type of fill hoses cost a bit more but are worth it. Remember: if these hoses burst, there is nothing to stop the water if you’re not there to shut off the supply faucet - so don’t be a cheapie. Some folks wrap Teflon tape around the rim of the faucet to insure a tight waterproof fit.
After changing the fill hoses, turn on water and check a few times for drips on both sides.
Note: When the fill hoses are off, it is a good idea to check the water supply faucets for sediment in the screen. Western North Carolina water usually has sediment. If these supply faucets seem too rusty and corroded, call a plumber to replace them.
Problem - Hoses, screen, and supply faucets are clear, but the washer still stops at rinse cycle!
The inside water valve is probably not working and will require a service technician to replace it.
Problem - Water won’t stop coming into the washer.
Again, call us on this one. The culprit is probably the internal washer valve discussed above.
Problem - Water comes in but the machine doesn’t start.
Again, call us.
Problem - The water is not draining properly.
Just like the water coming in, the water going out goes out a drain hose (looks like a tube) into a drain. Inspect this tube and don’t be afraid to pull it up out of the drain. Make sure the tube does not have any kinks and is not clogged. If this doesn’t work, call us for service.
Problem - Washing machine fills and drains at the same time.
It’s possible that the drain hose is not high enough! Always make sure the drain hose is at least 36 inches above the floor.
Problem - Laundry color loss or fading.
Ahh - This is where you may need to learn about the science of laundry, since we have become a species that relies on heavy chemical usage in our detergent. From Chlorine bleach, to phosphates, to silicates (a nice word for a sand like substance which adds some abrasive activity in our wash), you are shortening the life of your washing machine, your clothing, and the color in your clothing. Additionally, since these chemicals in your detergent can be non-biodegradable so you are killing the bacteria in your septic tank - that’s a bad thing. To prevent this, always read the ingredients on the package of laundry detergent and avoid phosphates, silicates, and bleach (if possible). Also don’t use too much detergent, it won’t get your clothes any cleaner!
Dryers are pretty simple devices; they spin around and use gas or electric heat to dry wet clothes. The most important thing you can do for your dryer is to keep it lint-free. That means clean the filter before each use. Once every six months, however, you should clear all the lint from where it leaves the back of your dryer into the vent hose and be sure to clean the plastic exhaust piece where the hot air blows out your house. It’s a chore, but do it. Don’t forget to inspect the lint screen from time to time to look for rips. If it is bent or ripped, replace it immediately. Lint is usually made up of mostly cotton and polyester, both good fire starters. If your dryer uses a cheap white plastic hose, replace it with an UL-approved aluminum dryer venting system. It’s also not a bad idea to have your dryer professionally disassembled and cleaned annually since lint can accumulated where you can’t get to it. A good cleaning will also make your dryer last longer and operate more efficiently.
Problem - Your dryer seems to take a long time to dry.
First, make sure your vent hose is clear, and is not bent or have any kinks. You need good airflow for your clothes to dry, and the hose itself should not be too long or have too many bends in it.
If you have good airflow, check the breaker switch in your fuse box. You probably have a 30-amp breaker and perhaps a dual (double) circuit breaker where half the switch has shut off giving the dryer enough power to turn the motor around but not enough to kick on the heating element. Just turn the breaker back on and test for drying.
Some dryers have two heating element coils, and one of yours may be burned out. Call us for service.
If your breaker is fine, ask yourself this question, Are you overloading the dryer?
Problem - Dryer does not turn on - no power.
If you turn on the circuit breaker and the dryer turns on briefly, but then off again (kicks the breaker off), you will have to call for service.
Problem - Dryer turns on, but drum won’t turn (tumble).
Most dryers have a belt that turns the drum around. These belts wear out and break. Since you probably can’t tell how the belt was originally positioned, it’s best to call us for service since our guys are experienced in the belt routings.
There is not much maintenance you can do on your dishwasher other then keeping the inside filter area clean of debris and making sure there is nothing stuck in the spray tubes and jets. Actually you will improve the performance of your dishwasher by using good dishwasher detergent, running the hot water for a minute in the sink next to the dishwasher before starting the dishwasher, and by not pre-rinsing your dishes too much as the detergent actually needs some food remnants to do its magic. That cheap powder stuff may actually cost you money in repairs since it does not dissolve properly.
Problem - My glasses are getting cloudy.
This is usually the result of too much dishwasher detergent. You should first test one glass by soaking it in white vinegar for about 5 minutes. If this cleared the glass, your glasses are getting clouded by hard water minerals and you can remedy this by using the proper amount of good quality detergent, hot water, and using a rinsing agent such as Jet Dry.
Some folks do a load of glasses with some white vinegar every now and then.
If the white vinegar didn’t work, the problem is probably due to an eroding / pitting process called etching. Many times you will see a rainbow looking effect on the glassware. This can be avoided by not using as much detergent, not pre-rinsing your glasses, and possibly adjusting the temperature of your hot water down. In the latter case, you would adjust the water on your hot water heater (should be 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit). Always tell your family about any changes you make to hot water temperature since it will effect all the hot water in your house.
Since our water in Western North Carolina is pretty soft, all you need is 3 teaspoons of detergent. Ignore the soap dispenser capacity of the machine. If you look at the guide below, you will see a range from 3 teaspoons to 12 teaspoons.
- Water Hardness Level Recommended Detergent Amount
- Soft (0 - 3 gpg) 3 teaspoons
- Medium (4 - 9 gpg) 4-9 teaspoons
- Hard (10 - 17 gpg) 10-12 teaspoons
Call your local water department for the range of hardness levels in your area.
Problem - After drying, my Dishwasher appears to be leaking water.
This is just condensation from the steam during the Dry cycle. If this bothers you, use the Heated Dry selection if one is available. Rinse aides like Jet-Dry will decrease some of this condensation. Remember if you are using the energy saver dry your dishes will not be completely dry.
Problem - Dishwasher won’t run.
Call us for service. It’s difficult to check the power supply at the plug since it is behind the unit. You can, however, check the circuit breaker at your fuse box.
Problem - Something is smoking within my dishwasher.
Stop the cycle, and now we are talking smoke, and not steam. We get this call often from folks with dishwashers that have an element that is visible, and something has fallen out and is getting too hot because it is touching the heating element. Just slide out your drawers and make certain nothing has fallen out. If this is not the case, you should call for service.
Problem - Dishwasher leaks lots of water.
Call us for service. (You’re seeing a pattern because dishwashers are tricky to work on and our service guys spend many calls getting do-it-your-self folks out of trouble.)
- Refrigerators / Freezers.
This is one appliance that you can really save money on by performing easy routine maintenance. A refrigerator is a device that works like the air conditioner in your home. It uses a compressor to pump super cool gas (Freon) which generates cold air and is then pumped into your freezer. Some of this cold air is allowed to travel into the refrigerator side (A.K.A. the fresh food section), to keep that side cool. You read that right, with the exception of some high-end models, all cold air is made in the freezer and part of that cold air is blown into the fresh food compartment side, which is regulated by the freezer control. The freezer control is actually an air baffle that opens or closes letting more or less air into the fresh food side. The "refrigerator" control on the other hand is a thermostat that turns the compressor on and off based on how you set the temperature inside the fresh food compartment.
Most Frost Free refrigerators will run between 75% and 85% of the time.
It’s normal for many refrigerators to have warm air coming out from the bottom of unit.
Routine Maintenance
Clean the condenser coil. This coil looks like a coil of wire with some baffles. It is usually under or behind your refrigerator. That’s right. You will have to lay on the floor or pull out your refrigerator. We sell a brush that works really well for this job. If you have not done this in awhile (or ever), it will be very dusty, so be diligent. You may have a vacuum cleaner attachment that could make this job go easier. You should do this twice a year. Remember a dirty coil will make your refrigerator work harder and cost you more money since the compressor has to work longer and harder.
Clean dirt from around the condenser fan, typically located on the lower back of your refrigerator. You will have to take off the back cover, which involves a few screws. You will need to unplug your refrigerator for a few minutes while you do this. Always replace the back cover after you have cleaned the fan, even if it is a cardboard cover, It is there for a reason.
If you can easily get to the inside evaporator fan, which is inside the freezer, clear it from any dirt or obstruction.
Clean all rubber seals. The last thing you want is cold air to get out and hot air to get in. Your refrigerator doors should have a tight seal when closed. Use soap and water to clean all of the rubber. For a small cut or slits in door gaskets, use silicone bathtub caulk to repair it.
Don’t place items too close to the outside of the refrigerator. Your refrigerator needs good airflow circulation. Resist the temptation to store brooms and other long objects that fit perfectly in the space along side your refrigerator.
Don’t place warm or hot items inside the refrigerator - let them cool outside first.
Set both controls to normal (half) position and wait 24 hours to see how well your refrigerator is doing after a good cleaning. If you have a thermometer, your freezer should be between -10 and +10 degrees Fahrenheit, and the food compartment between 36 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit.
Problem - The refrigerator is leaking water.
Since condensation exists during refrigeration, most refrigerators have a drip tube, which is part of the condensation drain running into a drip pan. These should all be cleaned of any crud. You will have to follow the drip tube to where it actually enters the refrigerator and clear it all out.
If there is just moisture on the outside of the refrigerator, you can correct it by setting the energy saver switch to Humid or set here when moisture appears on exterior. Give it 24 hours to dry out. Not all refrigerators have this option.
Problems such as condenser fan or compressor not running will require a service call.
Problem - Ice Clumping Together and will not drop into automatic Ice Maker dispenser.
We get many calls from part time residents concerned that their automatic Ice Machine won’t drop ice because it is clumped together. The answer is typically not want they want to hear, but remember your freezer does vary in temperature and if that Ice melts just a touch and there is no activity during a cycle where it drops down, the Ice may clump and you will need to manually break apart the clumps.
Problem - Ice machine is not working.
Ice machines require three things: A temperature of under 17 degrees Fahrenheit, a water supply, and an ice machine that works.
A thermometer can tell you the temperature.
You should make sure you have an unobstructed (and unfrozen) water line that leads up to the ice maker. Usually, it’s the water inlet tube that freezes so you will have to thaw it out. Ice machines use an internal water pump (water valve) usually located in the lower rear of the refrigerator that sometimes goes bad. This is best left to a service technician, but some do-it-yourselfers can handle it.
Be patient - it takes 24 hours for the ice maker to recycle after it has been turned off.
If it’s cold enough and the water supply is good, you may have a bad drive motor. Call us for to make sure before you purchase a new ice machine.
Problem - My refrigerator smells funny.
Unfortunately, some of the inside of a refrigerator is plastic which can retain odors. The first step is to thoroughly clean all seals and inside surfaces with warm soapy water after you remove any old food (was this meat loaf or chocolate cake?). Place a box of charcoal or baking powder inside both compartments to absorb odors and change them regularly. Eat your leftovers on a regular basis. See, I told you this would save you money!
Problem - Ice/Frost builds up my Frost Free refrigerator, and it stays too warm.
You probably have a bad defrost timer, heater, or thermostat. If everything freezes regardless of where you set the thermostat, it’s probably the thermostat. Either way, call us for service.
- Stoves, Ovens, Ranges, and Cook tops
When it comes to these guys, cleanliness is crucial to good operation. This includes cleaning all surfaces (except heating elements), all seals, and all controls. You should always stay with the cleaning solutions recommended by the manufacturer. For example, a glass cook top is sensitive to abrasive cleaners. Treated properly a stove, oven, range, or cook top should give you decades of good service.
Sometimes burners, elements or switches do go bad, but they can be replaced.
Remember to clean all exhaust vent filters as proper air circulation helps cook your food more efficiently, letting your appliance work easier.
Problem - The temperature in my oven is incorrect.
Before you accuse your oven of heating at the incorrect temperature or not maintaining the correct temperature, remember that when you turn on an oven, it will first go way above the set temperature. So if you set it to bake at 375 degrees Fahrenheit, it may first go up to 425 degrees, turn off the bake element, and then let the temperature drop slightly under the 375 Fahrenheit before it kicks back on again. So actually, the 375 is an average. Now the more money you spend on an oven, the tighter the deviations become from the 375 you originally asked for.
If your thermostat is out of calibration, you can re-calibrate it by pulling off the knob and looking on the back of the knob for the adjusting screws. Not all models have this feature, and you may have to install a new thermostat or live with it.
For convection ovens, you will want to reduce the oven temperature a bit for baking and cook for less time during roasting. Additionally, convection ovens work better if you don’t restrict the airflow in any way. For example, use low profile roasting pans.
Problem - Sometimes the burners on my cook top / range, do not work.
This is usually due to a loose burner element, loose switch wire, or faulty control switch. If you choose to investigate this yourself, remember to turn the breaker off first.
Always make certain the plug-in elements are firmly inserted into the receptacles. If the plug end appears burned from arcing, you must replace both the element and receptacle. Our service department is happy to do this for you so you don’t burn out another element.
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